1: GIVENCHY PRE-FALL 2009
NEW YORK, January 26, 2009
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
Riccardo Tisci's pre-fall lineup was an aggregation of themes that the Italian designer has been working on since joining Givenchy four years ago. The Peruvian stripes were, he said, a nod to the late Latin songstress Yma Sumac, but they'll also be familiar to those who follow the haute couture. There were echoes of the designer's agro-chic outing for Spring in the collection's mostly black tailored looks, but this time they were tempered with lace and pleated lamé. If an aviator-inspired group struck an off note, Tisci deserves top marks for a Mongolian lamb zippered topper and his body-con knits.
2: PROENZA SCHOULER PRE-FALL 2009
NEW YORK, January 13, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
"Real clothes." For pre-fall, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough said they focused not only on what the girls they know want to wear, but also on what they'd wear if they were girls themselves. Translation: The duo reimagined their uniform of cotton T-shirts and Levi's as sequin tees with zips up the back and stretch corduroys. Jersey blazers with the ease of cardigans and short full skirts also scored points for wearability. A draped teal georgette dress with asymmetric seams didn't quite rise to the level of fantasy seen on their runways, but it's just the thing a cool girl wants to wear on the cocktail circuit. In times like these, that's fitting.
3: ALEXANDER WANG PRE-FALL 2010
NEW YORK, December 4, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
"My girl, she's got to go to work sometime," Alexander Wang joked. Presumably, the designer's cultish fans have been wearing what he calls his "casual sportswear" around the clock—to the club and to the office. But for pre-fall, he's zeroing in on trousers (in narrow, almost legginglike knits or cropped and full in menswear wools) and jackets that came long, lean, and lapel-less, as well as short and tiered. Wang's also feeling for layers, throwing shorts or a mini over those skinny pants and adding sexy, peplumed leather corsets on top of a shirtdress or under a suit. The collection's banded sweater and long, mid-calf-length skirt were definite departures from his edgy downtown vibe—yet decidedly winning. Wang should push this serious thing further. But, of course, it would be foolish to abandon his fan base entirely. For his party girl (and the stores who can't keep the frock in stock) he did another one of his draped goddess dresses, this time with a leather bra-cup bodice and sequins.
4: ALEXANDER WANG FALL 2009 RTW
NEW YORK, February 14, 2009